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<p>That time of the year is here again, time to get out the rods and reels and spool them up with new line for the year! Although I have a rough idea of what I want to spool up my setups with, I'm looking for recommendations and advice from you guys on what will work the best for certain applications. This is what I'm thinking now, but let me know what you all think.</p>
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<p>~Spinning and Casting Setups~</p>
<p>-6'8" G. Loomis E6X Jigging rod with Shimano Sedona 2500fd reel. I use this setup for many different applications including vertical jigging for Drum; casting spoons, crankbaits, and jerkbaits for Drum, White Bass, Walleye, and Northern Pike; and very rarely I'll throw on a small crankbait or spoon to flatline for White Bass (although usually I use other setups for that). As of now, I'm thinking either 20 or 30 pound test braid (green power pro) with a 6-10' leader of 12 pound test fluorocarbon. What I want to know from you all is whether the line in general sounds like a good fit for the applications, whether I should use 20 or 30 pound braid, and how long should I make the fluoro leader going to the snap swivel? (also, is 12 pound fluoro heavy enough?)</p>
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<p>-6'0" Whuppinstick Cabela's combo and 6'6" Uglystick Lite rod with Pfleuger President reel. I use both of these for primarily bait fishing applications. Locally, I use them in my creek with slip sinker setups for White Suckers, Hogsuckers, and holdover Trout; as well as in the Allegheny River for Common Carp, Channel Catfish, Smallmouth Buffalo, and (hopefully this season) Redhorse. I also use them when we're mixed bag drift fishing on Lake Erie for Drum, Smallmouth Bass, Rock Bass, Sunfish, Yellow Perch, and White Bass. I normally just use 12 pound mono straight to a snap swivel with the rig, but what do you guys think? I thought about using 10 pound mono this year, but I don't think there's much of a difference and it's nice to have that extra 2 pounds of break strength (probably more a security thing) when you've got a big Drum on the end of your line.</p>
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<p>-7'6" St. Croix Triumph Musky rod with Daiwa Lexa 400hsl reel. There's really only two species I use this setup for: Musky and Northern Pike. Although, this year I'm hoping to do some deep water vertical jigging for Lake Trout with it as well. I've been using 50 pound braid (power pro) with no problem, but I do hear talk from musky guys saying to use 65, 80, or even 100 pound test. However, that seems more for guys pitching pounders, whereas I'm really only fishing 4-6 ounce Jerkbaits and the occasional 4 ounce lead head jig or swimbait with this setup.</p>
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<p>~Trolling Setups~</p>
<p>-8'6" Cabela's Depthmaster Downrigger combos. We use these up on Lake Erie as our downrigger rods, and thus they're single purpose setups. What makes me question what line to use are the target species. Depending on the time of year, weather conditions, etc, we'll troll for different species. Our most commonly targeted fish are Lake Trout, Steelhead, Brown Trout, and Freshwater Drum. We do occasionally go after Walleye and White Bass too, but I'm more concerned about the first few species. Last year, we used 25 pound test mono, but I'm considering using 20 pound as I've been told it can make a significant difference. There are certainly more than a few Lakers and Drum in Erie over the 20 pound mark, but with the 40% stretch capability of mono and a quality drag on one's reel, I'd think I should still be able to pull a monster in with 20 pound test just as well as with 25 pound. Thoughts?</p>
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<p>-9'0" Okuma Classic Pro GLT diver rods with Shimano Tekota 700LC reels. These are new setups we'll be using this year so I'm looking for opinions on which type of line to use. I've heard that wire line (I'd use 30 pound test) is the best line for directional divers. The other type of line I've heard is pretty much just as good though is braid. As of now, I'm leaning towards either 30 or 50 pound test braid as not only will it work for divers, but I'll also be able to add an 8-10' fluoro leader to the end of it if I wanted to do some flatline trolling in shallower water for Drum, White Bass, etc where wire (and divers) would not work so well in shallow. However, if wire will make a significant difference in catch rates for divers, I'll certainly use it as after all, these are diver rods. I just thought the option of flatlining would be a nice bonus.</p>
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<p>Thanks again for the help, everyone!</p>
<p>-Sean</p>
For light rods, I use 4 pound Trilene mono or something equivalent.
For medium rods, I use 8-12 pound Trilene mono or something equivalent.
For heavy rods, I use either a braid, like 80-pound Tuffline, or a heavy monofilament, like 17 pound Trilene mono. Or something equivalent.
Lines are all pretty much the same. Pretty much any line will work, as long as you can tie good knots with it. Your ability to quickly tie good knots in the line you choose is much more important than the line's stretch or toughness or whatever marketing points they pitch at you.
The lines that are manufactured today are so good that you can literally pick one at random and it will work great.
Just build your tackle to use the lightest line you feel comfortable with, that you can also tie good knots with. Then, learn to fish with that line and stop worrying about it. Don't go over-heavy, because that means fewer bites. Don't go over-light, because you'll break off. When in doubt, use 10-pound mono. Don't make it complicated.
Usually, 2/10 PowerPro braid serves the tackle and fish I pursue. Almost always use a fluoro leader, P-line Fluoro or Seaguar, anywhere from 4-10 lb test. No need for heavier line than a rod or reel (drag washers) can handle, most hooks really aren't that strong anyway. They bend easier than one might imagine.
As a general rule, don't get crazy with line strength and always ponder what the weakest link actually is...sometimes it's simply the tissue in a fish mouth. You will have to break-off snags and this gets nasty with overly heavy lines, especially if an errant cast is hung in the branches of a bankside tree.
Great advice on knot tying above from Corey, I'll add that most knots will tie a bit better and truer with lighter lines. This is especially important to note when tieing to a lighter wire hook or swivel eye. Clinch, Palomar, and others don't cinch-up well when heavy line knots are attempted on smaller hook wire. Same for loops. Many overcompensate in line strength due to crummy knots or inappropriately matching line to terminal tackle, sometimes lighter is stronger overall in this aspect.
Ignore it entirely, unless you are after line class records - and even then the label doesn't mean anything, you'd have to know what the line actually breaks at. There are many different standards for measure breaking strain, what the IGFA would call 6 or 8lb test would be called 16lb test in the continential parts of Europe because those countries favor a very different metric for measuring break strength. Additionally, most lines manufactured don't follow any standard at all - it is not uncommon for one companies 6lb test to have a higher breaking strain than another companies 8lb test. You are better served to look at diameter for the line you are using.
I don't do very much big water trolling but I know a few people that do. Most (all?) manufacturers 20lb mono is plenty for downrigger applications. I guess I'd find out what is popular in your area for that. Wireline and 30-50 braid are both popular for dipsy divers - I think most guys who run wire have roller guides. But I know braid works fine for most people and the braid would be way more versatile.
Rarely do lines just break in fishing situations, max drag for 6-8lb mono should be something like 2lbs. Try dead lifting 2lbs with a medium spinning rod... it is a lot more pressure than you'd expect. Most the fish you lose are the hook rolling/pulling out of the fish, if your line actually fails usually it is a bad knot or abrasion. If a knot doesn't look perfect I cut it and re-tie. A not neat knot need not be knotted <- words to live by. Same thing if there is any damage to the line - check regularly, if there is any doubt cut off a couple feet and retie. The lightest line you are comfortable with will be the easiest to get a good knot, it will cast better, it will provide a more direct path to the hook (especially in current)
Thanks for the responses, everyone!
Corey, that's good to know and it's kind of what I figured as you see different people using so many different lines for the same things. I'll probably spool up my mixed bag setups with 12 pound test again as I t seems to be working for me and it's not much larger in diameter than 10 pound.
kernel j, I have noticed that pretty much all knots are easier to tie with lighter lines. It takes me 5 minutes to tie on a snap swivel with a double clinch knot with my downrigger rods just because the knots will loop up if you tie them to hastily.
TonyS, that's good to know about the line diameter. I figured that most companies used the same standard, but I guess not. Would you say that 20 or 30 pound PP would work better for jigging and casting for Drum, White Bass, and Pike? I was going to go with 30 pound because PP is already so thin that the difference in diameter between the two is not that much.
I'd go 20lb, the difference between 20 and 30 might not sound like much on paper but in practice 30lb PP feels like bailing twine compared to 20lb - on mediumish Spinning tackle 20lb is far more verisatile. Pike is a loaded question as some people fish Pike with 1/2 spinnerbaits and other people fish them with huge lures. I doubt the rod you are describing is designed to handle lures over 1oz so 20lb PP will be far more practical, especially with jigs or smaller lure. 30lb isn't going to cast an 1/8 Roostertail (or a small jig) very well and that has historically been my most successful White Bass lure
Tony S very wisely advises....
Try dead lifting 2lbs with a medium spinning rod... it is a lot more pressure than you'd expect.
This is something folks rarely ever do when assessing tackle capabilities, but it's a great idea and should be done by everyone. But do start light with a can of beer or soup, not the 10lb dumbell
.
Another rare, yet useful experiment, is to go out back with a buddy and spring scale (the fishing kind) and let them "play fishy" while calling out numbers as you fight them. You'll be mighty surprised at how little pressure one applies with most any rod, even heavier tackle. This is very telling and will change the way an angler looks at line and what lb test is practical in the real world of fishing.
As an aside, many went overboard & apeshit years ago when superline technology gave them immense strength in thin diameters. It allowed use of strong lines on smaller, lighter reels, but the guts of these reels are rarely capable of handling such loads and stresses. Be it drags, anti-reverse, or rotor assemblies, the average reel is a pretty light duty tool for frequent use. IOW, lighten-up and don't kill your toys.
This is mostly aimed at Tony - what line do you use for your Centerpin? I'm thinking about using thin 8 pound mono. I would probably do better with 4, but I plan on possibly steelhead fishing with it.
Most people run a thicker main line that the float sits on and the long (3'-4') thin leader section. That pretty much eliminates the chance of losing your float - no matter how bad you snag up your shot. I've been using .275mm mono (10lb Ande), though 6lb berkley XT (.25mm) would work great too - then going 6lb XL (.225mm) for my leader. Hi-vis is popular for the main line, which can help a bit at times. Other guys just keep it simple and run the same line right down to the hook, if I were doing that I'd err on the thinner end.
Rambling aside, running a thicker mainline and a heavier float makes getting the hang of casting easier. Once you get it down, you could use most anything.
I have a 6lb equivallent on my pin and has worked great from a newbie standpoint, and has fit the bill for the last two years. The long float rod helps with playing fish tremendously.
Carpy Diem!
Which 6lb line are you running on your pin? Are you running the same line straight through? Always good to hear how others are doing things
I'm running an 8lb Ande (0.275mm) mainline on my 'Pin right now, 6lb XL (0.225mm) leader. I've thought about dropping my mainline down and running straight through, though the fatter hi-vis mainline probably slightly reduces people dropping in below me and bombing casts over my float...
Sunline Siglon F Flourescent Mono, I run this straight through. Sometimes a 4lb mono leader. I picked the sunline based on reviews and it was sold through the same place I bought the pin, so I have to believe there is a much better alternative. But this has worked great for the past two seasons. I have used it in still waters and rivers/streams and it was great in both to be honest. It will need replacing this season for sure.
Carpy Diem!
Thanks for the line pointers, guys. I would really like to get myself a centerpinning setup
One more question for you, Tony, not to interrupt your Centerpin discussion haha. Do you think 20 pound PP with a six or eight feet leader (or would longer than that be better?) of 12 pound fluoro could handle a big channel cat? It doesn't happen often, but occasionally I will get in to a big channel cat fishing from our beach's pier on Lake Erie and one in particular last year was 32" and 21 pounds, which I thankfully was able to land on 12 pound mono. I'd think 20 pound braid would be strong enough with a good drag for a fish like that, but I've heard a few guys say you need much thicker braids like 50 and 65 pound test when fishing for catfish for some reason (perhaps in case they scrape the braid off something trying to get back in to their haunt?).
I have not encountered channel cats that are line shy. a foot to 18" of leader is fine. I often use a 10 or 12lb flouro or mono leader from the power pro mainline
Carpy Diem!
That line will work fine for landing large incidental Channels on the tackle you describe. Heavy braids for Channel Cats is more of a heavy baitcasting gear and bottom fishing with heavy (4oz) lead, river fishing game. It isn't the fish that requires the thick line but the sinker and evironment. And the fact that thin braids dig terribly on heavy baitcasting tackle, especially when winching a cat away from timber in heavy current. In a lake environment, if you have room for the fish to run you can land big fish for sure. Rivers can be a different game.
My best Channel Cat was 35" - it was landed on 0.3mm (10lb big game) mono in heavy current. I probably was pushing the line pretty hard given the conditions but I still had enough control to prevent it from making it to a snag.
I assume you are using medium-ish tackle, you can only push the rod/reel so hard before something breaks. 12lb fluoro is to be drag settings of 3lbs or so, if you can't lift 3lbs off the ground with your rod the only other thing you have to worry about is abrasion. That wouldn't come from the fish, more the environment and how you are fishing (bottom fishing is rougher on the line and hucking spoons)
Got all my reels spooled up last weekend. Went with 20# PP on the casting and jigging setup, 6# mono on my stocked trout/panfish rod, and 12# mono as a staple for all the other ones. As far as trolling reels go, I put 30# braid on the Dipsy reels, the planer board reels will have 27# leadcore when they come, and the downrigger reels have 20# trilene XL. I know this is a casting line but not many (if any) Pittsburgh tackle stores have much big water equipment but I think 20# XL should still be plenty strong and abrasion-resistant enough to get ripped off cannonball releases and fight Lakers, Steelhead, and Drum, but what do you guys think? Have any of you ever trolled with XL, does it hold up well? Last year I was able to really fight the fish using 25# big game but I guess we'll just see in time.